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Portrait of a Woman - Attributed to Benedetto Ghirlandaio

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About the artwork

Portrait of a Woman
c. 1495
Artist: Attributed to Benedetto Ghirlandaio
Italian (Florence), 1458 - 1497
Bust-length portrait of an unknown woman
16 13/16 x 11 3/4 in. (42.7 x 29.85 cm) (sight)
17 3/8 x 12 3/8 x 1/4 in. (44.13 x 31.43 x 0.64 cm) (panel)
Oil on panel (not tested)
Painting
Italy
15th century
Bequest of Miss Tessie Jones in memory of Herschel V. Jones

On a gentle afternoon in Florence, the golden hues of sunlight danced through the windows of an artist's studio, capturing the essence of a portrait that would become an enigma through the ages. There, framed within the delicate brushstrokes, stood a captivating lady—a prim blond vision, her mysterious allure whispering tales of both northern European elegance and Italian finesse.

At first glance, one might assume she hails from the sun-kissed valleys of Italy, yet there’s an unmistakable hint of the North in her features. Her headdress, while not towering like traditional forms, draws inspiration from northern fashions, symbolizing a bridge between cultures. Suspended from a pearl necklace is a jewel, likely Flemish, yet it finds harmony in its Florentine setting—an element that speaks volumes about her identity.

As we gaze deeper into the portrait, we are drawn to her high forehead, a canvas for beauty standards shared across the Alps. The plucked hairline and carefully shaped eyebrows reveal the conventions of feminine allure, while the straight hair softly frames her face, suggesting an Italian preference, as if kissed by the warm Tuscan sun.

Draped in a winter gown that flows elegantly—a golden surcoat cascading over a deep-red gamurra with vibrant green sleeves—she epitomizes the luxurious traditions of Italian attire. Silk cascades around her figure, eschewing the typical velvet or fur of the time, and large, intricate lace designs tell their own stories. Among these, an eagle with outstretched wings and a cross enchants the viewer, rooted in Italian craftsmanship and embroidery.

Her pendant tells a symbolic story of its own: a sparkling diamond representing strength, a fiery ruby symbolizing love, and a shimmering pearl reflecting fertile chastity, whispering secrets of her life and perhaps hinting at her status as a bride. Yet, the modest low veil draping her hair may suggest a different narrative—a nod to widowhood, encapsulating the bittersweet complexity of her existence.

Despite the mysteries surrounding her identity, there is no doubt that her personal style radiates Italian flair, revealing she was painted in the heart of Florence. Scholars, amidst their debates, have leaned toward attributing this masterpiece to Benedetto Ghirlandaio. The youngest sibling in the illustrious Ghirlandaio workshop, Benedetto's brush had become tinted with a French accent, a result of his formative years spent across the Alps, painting stories of beauty, love, and life.

In every gaze cast upon this portrait, the story unfolds, a different interpretation blossoming like the garden of Florence itself—an eternal dialogue between cultures, identities, and the very essence of womanhood.


About the artist


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